As with most great cities, it could take years to visit all of the notable attractions and soak in all of the history but . . . most of us don’t have a month, much less a year. Do you have a day? That’s how we traversed a few of the old town’s many highlights on a sunny afternoon in April. You can start at either end and still enjoy all of the sites but the cool thing about starting at the London Eye is that you can get a bird’s eye view of where you’ll be spending the rest of your day!
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The world-famous London Eye was conceived as part of a failed contest to design a new London landmark in celebration of the millennium. While the contest floundered the idea of a Ferris wheel gained momentum. It wasn’t quite completed before 2000 but did open later that year. On a clear day, one can see as far as Windsor Castle, some 24 miles (40 km) to the west.
- Each revolution takes 30 minutes to go full circle and, at a speed of 0.6 MPH, the perfect pace for shooting video or taking pictures.
- There was actually a previous version, The Great Wheel, which was operational from 1895-1906.
- Some interesting numbers . . . more than 3,500,000 people ride on the Eye every year. The wheel measures 1,392 feet of the circumference at a height of 443 feet and a weight of 1,000 tons. The wheel has 32 pods which represent the number of London boroughs.
- The 32 capsules are numbered 1-33 with a minor superstitious exception. As with many tall structures, the Eye goes from #12 to #14 bypassing 13 altogether.
- Legoland Windsor has a miniature scaled model of the Eye in its Miniland exhibit, which also has models of the Palace of Westminster, the Millennium Bridge, and Buckingham Palace.
From the Eye head west over the Westminster Bridge (make sure you look back over your right shoulder for a different view of the Eye) where you get a magnificent Thames view of the Houses of Parliament with its quintessential landmark, the Clock Tower. The opening ceremonies in the mid-16th century were performed with much fanfare as Big Ben was transported via barge down the Thames then across the Westminster Bridge drawn by a 16 white horse carriage.
- Though commonly known as the Clock Tower, the tower was actually renamed the Elizabeth Tower in 2012, in honor of the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee. Also of note . . . Big Ben is actually the name of the bell within the tower itself.
- Big Ben has been silent at least five times over its lifetime. The first few were due to the bell cracking with subsequent shutdowns in 1976 and 2007 resulting from necessary maintenance and repairs.
- Some interesting numbers . . . the Tower stands at 315 feet (96 meters) and has 11 floors, the foundations were originally set at a depth of 10 feet (3 meters), 2,600 cubic meters of bricks and 850 cubic meters of stone were required during construction. Big Ben itself weighs in at 13.7 tons (27,400 pounds) and is 7.2 feet (2.2 meters) in height with a circumference of 8.9 feet (2.7 meters). The hammer which strikes the bell weighs 440 pounds (200 kg).
- Due to mounting security concerns, foreigners are not allowed to tour Big Ben. British citizens are still allowed to visit Big Ben, but only after applying in writing to their local MP.
On the Reel
Seven Days to Noon (1950)
Starring Barry Jones, André Morell and Olive Sloane. Directed by John and Roy Boulting.
This atomic age thriller tells the story of an atomic scientist who steals an atomic bomb and threatens to blow up London. The entire film was shot in London and features footage of the Tower and Houses of Parliament.
From the Eye head west over the Westminster Bridge (make sure you look back over your right shoulder for a different view of the Eye) where you get a magnificent Thames view of the Houses of Parliament with its quintessential landmark, the Clock Tower. The opening ceremonies in the mid-16th century were performed with much fanfare as Big Ben was transported via barge down the Thames then across the Westminster Bridge drawn by a 16 white horse carriage.
- Tours of the Houses of Parliament last around 75 minutes with tours beginning every 15 minutes. Exceptions are on national holidays and Sundays. Make sure you book a tour ahead of time because availability can depend on when Parliament is in session.
- Technically the Houses of Parliament is actually the Palace of Westminster, a royal palace and former residence of kings on the River Thames.
- Some interesting numbers . . . 1,000 rooms, 100 staircases, 3 miles of passages.
- During WWII bombing raids, the chamber of the House of Commons was obliterated. It was rebuilt from designs created by Giles Gilbert Scott who was also responsible for the iconic red telephone boxes still seen throughout London.
- Part of the design inside the House of Commons was to create enough physical space on the floor of the chamber of the House of Commons, between the opposing parties so that no opposing members become embroiled in a duel mid-debate”.
On the Reel
Darkest Hour (2017)
Starring Gary Oldman, Lily James and Kristin Scott Thomas. Directed by Joe Wright.
This mostly faithful retelling of the early days of Winston Churchill as Britain’s new Prime Minister focuses on his domestic political battles as well as the monumental conflict with Hitler’s Germany and the potential impact on Western Civilization.
Upon exiting Parliament head south along Abington Street until you reach the back of St Margaret’s Church then proceed west. You’ll see the north side of Westminster Abbey on your left.
The Gothic Abbey church was commissioned by the same Edward the Confessor (see Houses of Parliament above) as a place for him to be buried. The war of succession that resulted from his death helped to create the tradition of coronations in the church. Of course, it has also served as the site for royal weddings, the most recent of which was Prince William to Kate Middleton (now the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge).
- Westminster Abbey is open to tourists from 9:30 am to 3:30 pm every Monday through Saturday for, as of this writing, £23 for adults and £10 for kids under 17.
- Though it only became a tradition over time, the South Transept of the Abbey serves as a memorial of some of Britain’s most famous writers including Geoffrey Chaucer, Edmund Spencer, Lord Byron, Thomas Hardy and, of course, William Shakespeare.
- Since 1308 King Edward’s Chair, aka the Coronation Chair, has been the throne every British monarch sits upon during their coronation. In the 18th and 19th centuries, when the chair was not protected as today, schoolboys were known to carve their names into it. Their handiwork survives to this day.
- There is an oak door by the Chapter House that has been dated to 1050 AD.
- The Abbey museum has many lifelike wax effigies of monarchs. Some are fully clothed in traditional costume which is interesting but some also had their faces reconstructed from their death masks so that is a bit unsettling, especially for little ones.
On the Reel
The Young Victoria (2009)
Starring Emily Blunt, Rupert Friend and Paul Bettany. Directed by Jean-Marc Vallée.
A very well-made historical drama retelling the ascension of Victoria from teenager to ruler of the British Empire. The first big role for Emily Blunt in a wonderful nuanced performance supported ably by Rupert Friend as her Prince Albert.
Head north about a block until you get to Great George St where you want to head west. If you’re adventurous you could head north on Horse Guard’s Road then make a slight detour east on Downing Street for about half a block to see the Prime Ministers home on the left at #10. Once back on Horse Guard stroll across the way inside the eastern part of St James’s Park to find the wonderfully quaint Duck Island Cottage. Head southwest where you could follow the path to the road (which becomes Birdcage Walk), or continue on and explore the Park a bit.
St. James’s Park is distinctive for many reasons but primarily due to its age (it is the oldest Royal Park in London) and proximity to the three surrounding palaces; Palace of Westminster, St James’s Palace and, most famously, Buckingham Palace. It is also perfect for a quiet stroll, smelling the flowers or simply bird watching.
- The most famous residents of the park are the pelicans. They originally arrived in 1664 as a gift from the Russian Ambassador to King Charles II and their descendants are still around today.
- The lake, which serves as the centerpiece of the park, was drained in 1916 and became a home for temporary government homes. A few years after WWII the lake bed was filled again.
- In 2011 a skeleton was found in the park. It turns out it was a transplanted American, obsessed with the Queen, who had made a home for himself on one of the parks private islands and remained for years until the body was discovered in 2011 three years after his demise.
- Another oddity of the park is its namesake. James the Less founded a leper hospital on the grounds which housed female lepers who made a life for themselves raising hogs and other animals.
On the Reel
Mary Poppins Returns (2018)
Starring Emily Blunt, Lin-Manuel Miranda and Ben Whishaw. Directed by Rob Marshall.
This sequel to the popular Julie Andrews classic has the magical Mary Poppins (now played by Emily Blunt) return to London years later to help the children (now adults) through their troubles and help them rediscover the joy of living.
At the farthest west tip of the park take a right turn on Spur Rd. You’ll see the golden Victoria Memorial straight ahead and Buckingham Palace to your left.
This magnificent structure was commissioned by John Sheffield, then the Duke of Buckingham, in 1703 as a simple place for him to stay when he was in London. It wasn’t until 1820, when architect John Nash oversaw a complete re-transformation, that the Palace took on the grandeur we see today. Ironically, Nash went well over budget and was subsequently fired from his post.
- Directly in front of the main gate is the golden Victoria Memorial. The memorial is the sculpture of Queen Victoria, flanked by the Angel of Truth, Charity and the Angel of Justice with Victory at the top. The best view is when you head southwest down The Mall on the north side of St James’s Park.
- Some interesting numbers . . . 775 total rooms comprised of 188 staff bedrooms, 92 offices, 78 bathrooms, 52 royal and guest bedrooms plus 19 staterooms. There are also 40,000 lightbulbs, 1,514 doors, 760 windows and 350 clocks. The Palace has over 77,000 square meters of floor space and the grounds cover 39 acres.
- Edward the Confessor (he was busy wasn’t he) owned the village where the Palace now stands but it wasn’t until 1531 that Henry VIII reclaimed it for the Crown.
- The ceremony of the Guard Mounting, or Changing of the Guard, occurs just outside of Buckingham Palace at 10:45am and usually lasts about 45 minutes.
- As you leave, to the slight northeast of the Victoria Memorial is the amazing, gold-leaved, Canada Gate. It serves as an entry to the Green Park and was a gift from the Canadian government as part of Queen Victoria’s memorial scheme in 1901.
On the Reel
House of Cards (1990)
Starring Ian Richardson, Susannah Harker and Miles Anderson. Directed by Paul Seed.
The original House of Cards, a 3-part British mini-series, is more satiric (and far more fun) than its American remake. It is told from a first person perspective by our protagonist vying to become the next Prime Minister by any means necessary. The word audacity takes on a new meaning in the person of Francis Urquhart.
This 1.3 mile stretch of London has so much to offer it could easily be stretched into 2 days alone. The more you immerse yourself into the history of London the more interesting it becomes.
Do you have any interesting stories from the “Old Smoke”? We’d love to hear all about them!
