Tucked neatly along the central North Carolina coast, between Hatteras and Portsmouth Islands, is the charming Ocracoke Island. Home to approximately 900 year-round residents, the 9.6 mi² (24.9 km²) island swells to over 10,000 during the popular summer months. Ocracoke Island, the southern most point of North Carolina’s world renowned Outer Banks, can only be accessed by water. There are (3) different publicly available options to choose from: the Swan Quarter Ferry and Cedar Island Ferry (each $15 per car) and the Hatteras to Ocracoke Ferry (free).
The heart of Ocracoke Island encircles the Anchorage Marina covering about 3 miles (4.8 km) in total. Getting around is easy and fun. While you can certainly drive your car the best option, particularly while in town, is to either rent a golf cart or explore on foot. Everything is accessible, easy to get find and can easily be seen in less than a single day.
We took the Swan Quarter Ferry over and arrived on Ocracoke Island around noon, saw all the sights, spent the night then took the Ocracoke to Hatteras Ferry the next morning . . . and never felt rushed.
Swan Quarter Ferry
Swan Quarter Ferry is one of two options, Cedar Island Ferry being the other, that will transport you from the North Carolina mainland over to Ocracoke Island. Our trip took 2 hours and 49 minutes at a cost of $15 per car. Individuals can ride over for just $5. For the most part you’re looking at open ocean but, if you pay attention, you’ll note the vessel staying inside marked buoys along predetermined shipping lanes. There are interior spaces on both the first and second levels of the ferry with tables and chairs as well as restrooms. You can freely walk all about the ferry while enjoying the bevy of Laughing Gulls and Seagulls that fly along looking for scraps. You’re welcomed on Ocracoke Island by the beautiful red-bricked roof North Carolina Center for the Advancement of Teaching building.
Ocracoke Island Visitor Center
The Ocracoke Island Visitor Center, and a convenient parking lot, is directly in front of you as you exit the ferry terminal. The center has several exhibits, a small bookstore, several vending machines and a gift shop as well as brochures about all the attractions on Ocracoke Island. There is a nice- covered area with benches for gatherings and clean public restrooms. At the entrance you’ll find a petrified skull of a 60’ (18.3 m) Northern Right Whale that washed ashore in 1988. There is also a small family cemetery of the Scarborough’s who originally owned the property.
Fort Ocracoke Monument
A short 5-minute walk north from the Visitor Center is the Fort Ocracoke Monument. It’s a simple black granite slab sitting on the water’s edge next to a few small boat ramps. Fort Ocracoke, built by volunteers in 1861, never saw any action during the Civil War. In fact, the fort was partially destroyed by its own troops before inevitably falling into Union hands. The last of the remains eventually fell into the Ocracoke Inlet by 1933 only to be rediscovered in 1998. The monument commemorates the fort, each of the Confederate soldiers who were stationed there and has a beautifully stenciled drawing of the fort fully ablaze.
Ocracoke Island's British Cemetery
One of the more distinctive parts of Ocracoke Island is the British Cemetery. During the initial days of the United States entry into WWII a largely unprotected Atlantic coastline was fodder for German submarine attacks. It was so treacherous along the North Carolina coast the Germans cruelly dubbed the Outer Banks “Torpedo Alley”. To aid its allies, the British navy sent its own ships to help patrol and protect the US east coast. One such ship, the HMT Bedfordshire was struck and sunk, losing each of its 37 crew members. Only four bodies were ever found having washed up on the shores of Ocracoke Island. These four are buried here and, as the grounds are actually leased in perpetuity to the British Commonwealth, they technically rest on British soil. There is also a beautiful black granite commemorative to the Bedfordshire and its crew. There is also an older cemetery next door featuring the resting place of local residents as well as some that perished in the waters surrounding Ocracoke Island.
Ocracoke Island Anchorage Marina
Encircling Silver Lake Harbor is the Anchorage Marina. The ferry undocks on the north end of the marina and most everything of interest on Ocracoke Island can be accessed from the ring road that surrounds the lake. It takes about 15 minutes to walk around to the south side and every step provides beautiful views of the water plus the various cottages, boats and slips that sit in the marina. From the east pier you can see the lighthouse framing the horizon in the distance.
There are restaurants like the local favorite SMacNally’s Bar & Grill, hotels like the Anchorage Inn & Marina, tourist stops like Kitty Hawk Kites and multiple places to rent golf carts for putting around the island. The view of the harbor from our hotel, the Ocracoke Harbor Inn, was spectacular. The marina has 40+ slips and can accommodate deep water docking for vessels up to 100’ (30.5 m) as well as smaller boats. Keep an eye out for a variety of winged friends either flying above or relaxing in the marina.
Ocracoke Lighthouse
The biggest attraction on Ocracoke Island is the light station, the second oldest operating lighthouse in the entire United States. It can be seen from most open areas of the island despite only being 75’ (22.9 m) in height. Its funnel shape, all white exterior and black octagonal lantern tower make it stand out along the horizon. The base measures 25’ (7.6 m) which narrows to just 12’ (3.7 m) at the top. This shift is supported by solid brick walls measuring 5’ (1.5 m) thick along the bottom tapering down to 2’ (.6 m) at its peak.
Unlike many current lighthouses, the Ocracoke Light Station still is lit at night. It uses a fourth-order Fresnal lens which emits light as far as 14 miles out to sea. There is a single iron spiral staircase (under repair during our visit) which ascends into the light tower itself. The lightkeepers home is almost as iconic as the light station itself. The two-story white home, with its distinctive brick-red roof similar to the Roanoke Marshes Lighthouse in Manteo, once housed the keeper, his family and upstairs quarters for an assistant.
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Springer’s Point Trail
A short 5-minute walk from the lighthouse is the trailhead for the Springer’s Point Preserve. A leisurely 8-minute walk through red cedar forests and twisted oaks land you on a nice stretch of beach overlooking the Pamlico Sound. This area is best known as a favorite hideaway for Edward Teach, better known as Blackbeard, the Pirate. In total, Springer’s Point Preserve covers 120 acres of Ocracoke Island and is considered a prime bird watching spot. Also keep an eye out for multiple ideal climbing trees, especially rimmed along the beachhead.
Books to be Red
A hidden little Ocracoke Island gem, just off Irvin Garrish Highway on School Street, is the charming Books to be Red. It is a wonderful little bookstore reminiscent of the small bookstores that used to dominate American cities. There’s a nice mix of books to choose from as well as a small gift section featuring works from local artists. Outside there’s an outdoor stage for local theatrical productions, a shaded mix of live oak and cedar trees plus a wonderful 7’ (2.1 m) replica of the Ocracoke Lighthouse.
Ocracoke Island's Howard Street
Every town has a unique story or family that defines the area. For Ocracoke Island that would be the Howard family. In 1759 William Howard bought the island for £105 and ten generations of Howard’s later, members of the clan still reside on the island today. The family legend claims that the original Howard was the quartermaster of none other than Blackbeard. Starting as a mere footpath, what became known as East Howard Street has been home to numerous family members. Today this quiet street is most noted for the live oaks that overhang the path, century-old cemeteries and the Village Craftsman, a small gallery featuring hand-crafted pottery, jewelry, prints and much more.
Ocracoke Harbor Inn
We’ve stayed in hotels all over the world and the Ocracoke Harbor Inn ranks right up there as one of our favorites. The combination of location, amenities, customer service, cleanliness and, did we mention location? The Inn is on Silver Lake Drive overlooking the Anchorage Marina with a northeast view of the beautiful North Carolina Center for the Advancement of Teaching to the northwest and the Ocracoke Island water tower to the northeast. Our 2nd floor room had amazing views off our balcony but there’s also a small common area with similar views. The Millers were great hosts and offer free continental breakfast, bike and golf cart rentals and a long boardwalk out onto Silver Lake Harbor.
Back Porch Restaurant
The Back Porch Restaurant was a surprise choice for us but well worth it. We originally were considering the Ocracoke Island favorite, Flying Melon, but it was a bit out of our budget. As it turns out, lucky for us, just 2 minutes up the road was the opening night of the season for the Back Porch Restaurant. The Back Porch has an interesting mix of traditional, eclectic and island atmosphere. They have a separate bar, a main dining area on two levels and a screened in porch option and features an expansive seafood and steak menu. So, of course, Ramie had Homemade Spaghetti and meat sauce and I had an exquisite Bourbon Pecan Chicken. We highly recommend the Back Porch Restaurant, especially if you request Jennifer as your waitress, located on Back Road off of Irvin Garrish Hwy.
Ocracoke Pony Pens
On our way to the northern point of Ocracoke Island to catch the ferry to Hatteras we stopped by the Pony Pens. While not the same experience as mingling with the wild horses in Corolla, it’s still cool to see these beautiful Spanish mustangs in person. They ran free on the island until 1959 when, for their own protection, they were moved to a secured 188 acres (76 ha) that includes a large penned area viewable from a wooden platform. Honestly, it’s a bit of hit-and-miss if they are close enough to see well so be prepared to be patient. Across the street is a wood boardwalk that leads to a wide open stretch of beach to watch the sunrise or just enjoy the waves.
Ocracoke to Hatteras Ferry
There is only a single place to catch the ferry to-and-from Ocracoke Island and Hatteras Island. It leaves every hour on the half hour but it can be erratic and they don’t communicate very well. You simply park and wait until they signal you forward. The journey over takes about an hour and takes a very circuitous shipping lane to get there due to the constantly shifting sands in the Hatteras Inlet (helping to avoid vessels accidentally running aground) and not getting too close to a crab spawning sanctuary. There’s a nice view of some large beachside homes, the untamed southwest beaches of Hatteras and you’re likely to see another ferry on its way to Ocracoke or one of the large sand dredging vessels.
Ocracoke Island is perfect for a relaxing day of exploring and adventure. The lighthouse is beautiful, the beaches pristine and there’s plenty of shops and restaurants to choose from. Whether you’re on foot or putting about on a golf cart, Ocracoke is a great way to experience North Carolina’s magical Outer Banks.
What is your favorite part of the Outer Banks? The Upper, Middle or Lower? We’d love to hear about it!
