When Ramie suggested a vacation to the Maine coast I wasn’t sure what to think. All of New England is beautiful and filled with tons of hidden gems but . . . all I could think was . . . Maine is cold! Well, as usual, she was right and we had a fantastic 4-days of summer exploring Ogunquit and Kennebunkport along the southern coast of the Pine Tree State.
The Algonquin Indians named Ogunquit, which is translated to mean “Beautiful Place by the Sea”, and it is certainly appropriate. From its harbor docks and sandy beaches to Marginal Way which runs parallel to the beach for 1¼ miles (2+ km). Kennebunkport is legendary for its plethora of art galleries, history, graciousness and (5) expansive and gorgeous sandy beaches. Both towns have excellent trolley systems that can pretty much take you wherever you want to go in town.
Let’s start with Ogunquit, approximately 95 minutes’ drive north from Boston . . .
Maine has some of the nation’s most beautiful beaches and Ogunquit is no exception. The sand is soft and the surf is kid-friendly. One of the more popular sections is the Footbridge Beach with its quaint footbridge access point which crosses over the Ogunquit River. Eventually, the river flows into the ocean at the southernmost point.
- The beach runs for 3½ straight miles (5.6 km) on the ocean side. It’s perfect for crabbing, boogie boarding, kite flying, building sand castles and whatever else your imagination can come up with.
- There is a fascinating stretch where the Ogunquit River is sandwiched between the Dunes on the Waterfront on the land side and the beach on the ocean side.
- When the river is running low sand holes develop on the beach which collects ocean water at high tide. When the tide goes back out the water remains for children to safely play in.
- Ogunquit Beach is on TripAdvisor’s list of Top 25 Beaches in the USA.
The Ogunquit River covers 9 miles long and is ideal for kayaking. There are plenty of local options not only for equipment but also for lessons. The river is unique in that it fills and empties with the tide while it runs north-south (parallel to the shoreline) for (9) miles.
- Somewhere between high tide and low tide, the current of the Ogunquit River flows out into the Atlantic at a swift pace. At that point, it creates a natural current strong enough for boogie boards, inner tubes or just floating away with the flow of the water. It doesn’t last that long but it is fun.
- In one 50-year stretch, between 1770 and 1822, the river had a 1-mile shift in location. It was caused by a major storm that cut off previous access points and redirected the water flow. It has since reverted back to its original positions.
- There are (4) ways to cross the river: drive across from downtown (convenient but the most crowded; walk across the footbridge at Footbridge Beach. Fewer people and the Trolley drop off point; row across from the dunes at high tide . . . no kidding; walk across the river at low tide, an advantage of the quirkiness of the tide patterns.
Perkins Cove began as a turn-of-the-century fishing village and art colony and now is a bustling seaside attraction that serves as a major tourist attraction. The cool thing is it has retained its authentic look and feel while also providing all of the modern amenities like restaurants, boutique shops and art galleries. The Basin harbor is home to the boats of the local fisherman as well as charters.
- Perkins Cove was named after an early resident, Daniel Perkins, whose house once overlooked the charming and photo-worthy harbor. Originally it was called Fish Cove so I think we’re all agreed a name change was in order.
- One of the more popular features is the Perkins Cove Drawbridge which stretches across the harbor to connect the two stretches of land on either side of the harbor. If you’re in luck you may have an opportunity to manually raise the bridge (at the behest of the Harbormaster).
- There are numerous options for sea adventures to choose from. You can enjoy anything from hands-on lobstering charters to deep-sea fishing or simply a good old-fashioned party cruise.
- The cove was reconfigured over time to make it safer for vessels to get in-and-out. For decades it was a dangerous and dicey task, as was the case with most Atlantic Ocean ports.
On the Reel
Empire Falls (2005)
Starring Ed Harris, Philip Seymour Hoffman and Helen Hunt. Directed by Fred Schepisi.
Richard Russo’s bustling novel comes to life with an impressive all-star cast including Paul Newman and Joanne Woodward in their last film together. The story explores the relationships of the citizens of an economically depressed Maine town. Originally produced as a 2-part mini-series on HBO. Ed Harris, as always, shines as the diner owner that is the glue of the town. Shot in Ogunquit and Kennebunkport.
That Place in Ogunquit is a wonderful, quaintly named, restaurant that also happens to be one of the most highly rated ones in town and for good reason. It has that perfect combination of great food, pleasing environment all at a reasonable cost. The name alone is reason enough to stop in and enjoy!
- The fare is varied enough for the entire family. The kids had burgers and mini pizzas while we enjoyed a bacon-wrapped scallops appetizer with stuffed haddock and filet mignon as our main courses. They also have gluten-free (and vegan) options which is always appreciated.
- There is a bustling bar section with (2) big screens and a dozen beers on tap. Nice for just appetizers as well. We recommend the clam chowder.
- If you aren’t from New England you might be surprised that the restaurant looks just like a home on the outside (it is). Not unusual in this part of the country. The outdoor seating is always a great option.
- Be prepared, the owner is a huge Patriots and Tom Brady fan.
Ogunquit has a reputation for being a “walk-friendly” town and nothing supports this contention better than the Marginal Way. This path along the ocean is the perfect way to walk off a meal, stroll with a loved one or walk by the 23’ (7 m) quaint little lighthouse. On your way, you’ll pass white and pink sea roses, bayberry and bittersweet bushes and shaded alcoves with trees that have been uniquely shaped for eons by the ocean winds.
- Marginal Way gets its name because of its proximity to the ocean . . . only margins away, as well as its patterned development along the rocky edge of the cliff.
- The walkway begins at the center of town and extends all the way down to Barnacle Billy’s in Perkins Cove.
- The 1¼ mile (2+ km) path runs as much as the beach it parallels, relatively flat and easy to navigate. The few uphill sections are rewarded with some stunning views.
- In case you do get tired, or just want to bask, there are no less than 39 benches to rest your bones on along the path.
It seems almost every beach town has that one bakery that stands out from the rest. So how do you tell? Follow the locals (not the tourists). In Ogunquit, it’s Bread & Roses Bakery. Located in the heart of town on Main St. this is your stop for desserts, snacks, coffee or tea.
- We originally went in for some blueberry scones to fuel up for a morning of shopping and an afternoon on the beach. Then we added a Banana and Mango Smoothie plus a Frozen Cappuccino!
- We stopped by again on the way out of town to stock up. Our haul included a Caprese Baguette, a Black Bean and Veggie Burrito, a few croissants (the raspberry cheese is amazing) and their incomparable quiche.
On the Reel
The Little Girl Who Lives Down the Lane (1976)
Starring Jodie Foster, Martin Sheen and Alexis Smith. Directed by Nicholas Gessner.
One of Jodie Foster’s early roles that established her as a special talent, The Little Girl Down the Lane is a chilling, suspenseful mystery that never disappoints. Somewhat controversial on its release it has since become a cult classic featuring a particularly creepy turn from Martin Sheen. Though the story takes place in Quebec many exterior shots are from Ogunquit and Kennebunkport.
We love lighthouses. There’s something nostalgic and regal about them. They’re also all unique in their own way. Nubble Light sits on top of a large rock island and its bright white façade stands out against the open sky. Early evening on a clear night showcases the true beauty of the lighthouse.
- Between 1879 and 1987, the years the lighthouse was manned, saw more than 30 lighthouse keepers each drawing a wage of $500 per year well into the 20th
- There were many shipwrecks prior to the construction of Nubble. The most infamous was the Isadore in 1842 which killed every single member of the crew.
- It wasn’t until 1938 that the lighthouse first installed electricity and indoor plumbing.
- The Nubble’s white lights are lit up twice a year for “Christmas in July” and the start of the winter holiday season.
- The Nubble Lighthouse is so well regarded it was part of a group of images, showing life on Earth, that went up with Voyager 2 in 1977 in the hopes of reaching an alien civilization someday.
The only negative about Rococo’s is that it closes at 7 pm every night. Well, maybe that’s good or you’d go out of your way every night to return. Located downtown just a few houses from Bread & Roses but on the opposite side of Main St.
- The king of variety, Rococo’s offers 67 different unique flavors.
- These aren’t just any 67 flavors . . . try Earl Grey, Rose Hip and Pistachio (all three make one flavor), Speculoos and Pretzel, Lemon Pink Peppercorn, Frangelico Fruitcake & Petit Macaroons . . . you get the picture.
- To top it off (pun intended) combine two or three of the exotic flavors, you won’t be disappointed!
A quick 23-minute drive north gets you to world famous Kennebunkport, ME. We could probably do an entire article on this wonderful town alone. It has so many interesting attractions and, of course, natural beauty. Here are a few of the more exciting things to do . . .
- Cape Porpoise Pier – a working fishing harbor that includes one of the nation’s oldest lighthouses, Goat Island Light. The restaurants aren’t fancy but the lobster is fresh every day. Great nostalgic weather-worn area.
- Walkers Point – the summer retreat of former President George H. Bush and his family still remains with the Bush family today. There is nice turnoff (with 15-minute parking) on Ocean Avenue for picture taking.
- Rococo Ice Cream – yes, yes, there is a Rococo in Kennebunkport as well! Take advantage and splurge.
- Dock Square – the defacto center of Kennebunkport life, this little collection of former fishing shacks have been transposed into a wonderful shopping area filled with boutique shops (some with fantastic second-floor views), arts & crafts, specialty foods and a bridge connecting to the Lower Village where you’ll find more good views plus the Clam Shack (definitely recommended for lobster rolls and fried clams).
- Beaches & Boat Tours – Goose Rocks Beach is the best for an evening stroll with its flat, soft sand and views of Timber Island and the coast. There are numerous opportunities for boat tours including the ever popular whale watching, scenic sailing cruises and fishing or lobster excursions.
On the Reel
41 (2012)
Starring George Bush, James Baker III and Barbara Bush. Directed by Jeffrey Roth.
This documentary of George Bush Sr. takes a unique approach that is more interview than the more traditional approach. The former president is very frank about his life experiences, regrets, accomplishments and beliefs. It’s an interesting presentation since there is no message but simply his life in his own words. Obviously, there is footage of the Bush compound in Kennebunkport.
As a final stop, on our way back down south, we had one more stop to make. Considered the best outlet mall in the Northeast United States, the Maine Kittery Outlets is definitely worth the stop but be prepared to stay a while. The variety is staggering with (169) stores and (7) restaurants.
- The stores include (37) women’s apparel, (29) men’s apparel, (27) accessories, (18) specialty, (16) shoes . . . and much more.
- There are even (10) home furnishings and housewares stores including Waterford and Yankee Candle.
- When all that shopping builds your appetite there are (7) places to choose from for a meal from quick (McDonald’s and Burger King) to Thai and Seafood plus, of course, a Starbucks. Most important, there is a wonderful Lindt Chocolate slice of paradise!
- And, of course, the deals!
If you live in the northeast you’ve probably heard about the beauty of Maine but, if not, consider a trip there. The ambiance is wonderful, the seafood incredible (and always fresh) and you’ll never run out of things to do.
Please let us know of any New England adventures you’ve had and what made them so special for you!
