Savannah provides something of a “best of all worlds” feel about it. Much of the city has remained unspoiled by time and retains its southern charm without being pretentious. The city is easily navigable by foot or trolley. One can enjoy the breeze off the Savannah River along River Street or relax in the shade in one of the (22) squares. If one had to choose, March would be the ideal time to visit . . . not too hot, everything’s starting to bloom and Savannah’s Irish roots are on full display.
We recommend you give yourself at least 3 full days to really experience the city (if not more). You can alternate between walking and taking the trolley. You will either need your own car or just call an Uber or Lyft, to go out to the Bonaventure Cemetery and Tybee Island. The cool thing about Savannah is not the destination but the journey. Every street has beautiful architecture and a square is always, quite literally, just a block away!
A great way to start your visit is on River Street. We started on the east end at the Waving Girl Statue, had a wonderful meal facing the water at Joe’s Crab Shack then stopped by Rousakis Plaza Echo Square. We ended at the Rousakis Riverfront Plaza (across the river from the Savannah Convention Center) where we watched the ferry’s come in and the massive freighters disappear in the distance under the Talmadge Memorial Bridge.
- During the 1996 Summer Olympics held in Atlanta, Savannah was home to the sailing competitions. As a memento, there is a Yachting Cauldron statue near the Waving Girl statue at the east end of River St.
- Though no one really knows how the tradition started, Florence Martus (of Waving Girl statue fame) definitely existed and is said to have carried on her tradition of waving to every newly arriving ship into the harbor for 44 years welcoming an estimated 50,000 ships along the way.
- The infamous X at Rousakis Plaza Echo Square is a must stop. If you stand in the middle of the X and speak, there is a unique but unmistakable echo which can only be heard by you, not by anyone immediately outside the square. So you don’t miss it, keep an eye out for the shop “Bob’s Your Uncle” and then head toward the river.
- The Rousakis Riverfront Plaza is THE place to just hang out. Whether you’re into people or ship watching take a few minutes and rest your legs. This seaport is actually the busiest in the entire USA aside from Los Angeles. Be sure to take the free ferry ride over to Hutchinson Island to get a full view of the beautiful riverfront.
- The Talmadge Memorial Bridge is actually the second bridge in that spot which connects Georgia and South Carolina. The original 1953 cantilever truss bridge (some of which still remains in some support areas) didn’t provide a high enough clearance for the larger ships toward the tail-end of the 20th The new “cable-stayed bridge”, built in 1990 (at a cost of $71 million) provides a 185-foot clearance. It is astounding to watch these massive freighters casually pass underneath the bridge!
On the Reel
Gator (1976)
Starring Burt Reynolds, Jack Weston and Lauren Hutton. Directed by Burt Reynolds.
This sequel to “White Lightning” is what action movies looked like in the 70’s. Fun, unpretentious when stunts were performed in person (not CGI). Helped along by the fun humor of Reynolds and the beautiful Georgia locations. The movie was shot almost entirely in Savannah (including a car driven into the river off of River street) and Tybee Island.
Trolley tours are a familiar sight around the city. They are particularly popular during the hot and humid summer months but also serve as a great way to see the city and learn about some of its more interesting stories. A complete loop of Savannah usually takes around 90 minutes so plan your day around it.
- One of the coolest features is the hop-on/hop-off plan. It allows you to see the city at your pace and can be extended over a few days. It’s especially cool if there is an area you wanted to stay longer to see. The trolleys come around at regular intervals so you’re never waiting too long for the next one.
- Be sure to do some online comparisons before committing to a specific tour group.
- Most tours are free for little ones under 4 and at a child’s rate under 13.
- Most tours start early, around 9 am, and run until 4 or 5 pm every day.
The City Market is as busy and industrious as it was when first conceived in the early 1700s. At that time it served as the hub of the city where not only was it a commercial center but also a social gathering area. Today the Market is home to just about any interest you might have from fine cuisine and frozen daiquiri bars to art galleries and horse-drawn rides.
- None of the original structures exist anymore, unable to survive the years of war, fires and the great hurricane of 1860. Luckily there was a local effort to keep the look, tone and feel the same so it retains its authentic appeal.
- In addition to the shops, museums, pubs and restaurants the Market also features nighttime live music and entertainment in the courtyards.
- The highlight is the shaded courtyard that lies in between the squares. It features everything from fresh fruits and vegetables to hand-crafted jewelry and one-of-a-kind clothing.
- Make sure you stop into Woof Gang Bakery. Even if you purchase nothing (we dare you) you will be highly entertained by all the eclectic offerings.
Ghost tours are a thing all over the south and Savannah is no exception. In fact, Savannah is known as “America’s Most Haunted City”. There is a wide variety of tours from graveyards and pubs to Adults only tours at night.
- It is said because of all the tragedies that are part of the South’s past, ghosts have a stronger presence than is normally the case. Even more so in Savannah with its history of slavery, hurricanes, fires, Civil War, etc.
- As with any tour, your guide makes a huge difference. Check out the online reviews before you commit to any specific tour.
- The tours are usually around $20-$30 for teens and adults and half that for pre-teens.
- Even if you aren’t into ghosts and spirits a great deal of historical information is always sprinkled in with the creepy stuff.
This beautiful landmark structure adorns the Savannah landscape reaching almost 100 feet in height. It features 81 stained glass windows, including the infamous 20-foot Rose window, 1,000 pieces of terra cotta, 16 gargoyles in the steeple and a center aisle that measures 114 feet in length. As beautiful as its interior is, the inside is equally stunning.
- The original parish, the Congregation de Saint Jean-Baptiste, was established in the late 18th-century by Hattian and French immigrants. Prior to then, the colonial charter prohibited Roman Catholics from settling in the city for fear of conflicting loyalties to Spanish authorities in Florida.
- This is the second version of the church at this site. The original, built in 1876, was almost entirely destroyed by fire in 1898. An earlier church of this congregation was also damaged in the 1860 hurricane.
- A 2012 earthquake in Washington, DC ( though some 500 miles away) is believed to have caused a crack in the steeples which were repaired, along with other structural improvements and window replacements, at a cost of $1.5 million.
- Open for self-guided tours Mon-Sat 9 am-5 pm (except between 11:45 am – 12:45 pm). Donations appreciated.
One of the unique, and extremely convenient, features of Savannah are the squares. The so-called Oglethorpe Plan (named after the General who founded the city) was originally developed in the early to mid-1700s and, while undergoing some inevitable alterations over the years, has remained mostly intact. If you are walking with a map the squares are an easy way to navigate the city. But do stop, sit for a spell and soak in the atmosphere under a meandering Spanish moss.
- Most of the (22) squares are named in the honor of a person, persons or commemorating a historical event. You may have to do some searching at each square to find a plaque or marker though many have a central statue that’s impossible to miss.
- The original square was actually built to provide residents a place for practical reasons. Given General Oglethorpe’s military background it makes sense as militia training exercises were not uncommon.
- The grid layout was devised partially as a response to the Great Fire of London in 1666 and the desire to create ample open spaces with one square for each ward.
- The (6) original squares quickly expanded to (33) as the city continued to expand until the mid-19th-century when the plan was abandoned in favor of large central parks like Forsyth Park.
On the Reel
Forrest Gump (1994)
Starring Tom Hanks, Robin Wright and Gary Sinise. Directed by Robert Zemeckis.
One of American audiences most beloved movies tells the never-ending adventures of mentally challenged Forrest as the events of the 60’s and 70’s unfold around, and with, him. The infamous park bench scene was shot at the Chippewa Square in Savannah. A replica of the bench itself now resides in the Savannah History Museum.
When one talks about the charm and grace of Savannah it’s easy to think of Forsythe Park. This 30-acre community green space, situated in the middle of the historic district, is the most visited part of the city yet never seems crowded. Be careful as you could end up spending an entire day in the park alone.
- The centerpiece of the park, the Fountain, was from a mail-order catalog. In fact, two other similar fountains can be found in Cuzco, Peru and Poughkeepsie, NY. It says something about the quality as the statue remains in pristine condition since its unveiling in 1858.
- In March the fountain is filled with green water (similar to Chicago) in celebration of the city’s Irish heritage.
- The original design of the other centerpiece of the park, the Confederate Memorial, was so despised by locals that one prominent townsman offered to have the statue “fixed” out of his own pocket. It was eventually altered with the final touch of the bronze soldier on top.
- In 2011 the Fragrant Garden was re-imagined including two fantastic and unique features. First, the walls were designed to keep the scent of the flowers contained which enhances their fragrance. The second is all of the plaques were refitted to include braille so blind visitors can read all about the flowers they cannot experience visually. Very cool.
About a 20 minute drive southeast of downtown is the stunning Bonaventure Cemetery. Originally owned by the Tattnall and Mullryne families who, unfortunately for them, were loyal to crown of England. As a result the state of Georgia stripped them of their property rights but, after decades of property tug-and-war, it ended up back in the hands of the Tattnall’s. They sold it in 1848 to Peter Wilberger who is responsible for its gradual transition from a family plot to the cemetery it is today.
- The most famous plot belongs to Savannah born Johnny Mercer, the holder of 4 Oscars, 19 Academy Award Nominations, 1,500 written songs and the founder of Capital records.
- The most famous local grave is that of 6-year old Gracie Watson. She was the only daughter of the Pulaski Hotel manager who so charmed each and every guest she became famous throughout the city. She fell ill from complications related to pneumonia and succumbed. Her gravesite stone carving, by noted sculptor John Waltz, is such a precise likeness of her that her parents had difficulty visiting her site without breaking down.
- The cemetery totals 100 acres and is considered one of the most beautiful in the entire country.
On the Reel
Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil (1997)
Starring John Cusack, Kevin Spacey and Jack Thompson. Directed by Clint Eastwood.
This fascinating retelling of the infamous 1980’s Jim Williams murder scandal perfectly captures the pace of the south and Savannah in particular. An atypical role for Cusack, a clever performance from Eastwood’s daughter Alison and a riveting performance by Spacey, turn this Eastwood film into a real gem. Great use of Savannah locations (Mercer House, Forsyth Park, Bonaventure Cemetery, etc.) as an additional character.
Yes, Leopold’s is well known by regulars but we had to accidentally stumble upon it to discover why it is so popular. They have expanded their offerings greatly over the years but ice cream is still the main attraction. Is there anything better than cold ice cream on a hot and humid Georgia day?
- Leopold’s was founded in 1919 by three immigrant brothers from Greece. Their uncle, already in the states, got them started in the candy and dessert business.
- They weren’t just creative mavericks, they also understood the single axiom of storefront businesses . . . location, location, location. The original site was on a street corner where two streetcar lines intersected.
- The owner, Stratton Leopold (youngest son of founder Peter Leopold), is also a Hollywood bigwig with production credits including Mission: Impossible II, The Wolfman with Benicio del Toro and The Adventures of Baron Munchausen.
- It isn’t just ice cream. Try their floats, banana splits and hand-crafted fountain sodas!
Tybee Island was originally part of Spain’s “La Florida” which extended from Nova Scotia in the north to the Bahamas in the south. Over the years Tybee played an important strategic role during war (introducing the “rifled Cannon” which forever altered the way coastal towns were protected) and even served as a makeshift quarantine area during the War of 1812. Eventually, the island became more of the resort area it is today. For locals, it’s a wonderful respite from the heat of the city.
- According to Guinness Book of World Records, Tybee is home to one of the largest paintings in the world. On the North Beach parking lot is a 76,726 square foot painting of the King himself, Elvis. It was painted in 1995 by students from the Savannah College of Art and Design.
- When the first lighthouse was built on the island in 1736 it was, at that time, the tallest structure in what is now the United States. It was a whopping 90 feet tall.
- A near disaster was somehow averted in 1958 when a nuclear bomb was accidentally dropped near Tybee. It did not detonate (good) but it also has never been recovered (not so good).
- The island was a favorite hiding place for pirates during the 16th-century.
On the Reel
Cape Fear (1962)
Starring Gregory Peck, Robert Mitchum and Polly Bergen. Directed by J. Lee Thompson.
The original classic thriller features an especially effective Mitchum as the ex-con slowly making the life of a man and his family, responsible for his incarceration, nightmarish. Filmed on location entirely in Savannah and on Tybee Island. Much better than the Scorsese remake from the 90’s.
Savannah can be the perfect weekend getaway (if you’re local) or a week’s vacation. There is not only much to do but also many opportunities to just relax and soak it all in. You can’t help but adjust your pace anyway so you might as well give in and enjoy yourself.
What is your favorite southern town? We’d love to hear all about it.
