The Middle Outer Banks of North Carolina consists of the towns of Kitty Hawk, Kill Devil Hills, Nags Head and Manteo. This 23.3 mile (37.5 km) stretch of the Outer Banks offers the most variety available along the North Carolina eastern shoreline. While the Upper Outer Banks is the more popular vacation destination and the Lower Outer Banks offers more seclusion, the Middle Outer Banks has more variety to choose from for all family members. Yes, there are plenty of great beaches to choose from but also aquariums, ship wrecks, historic sites, art galleries, museums and, of course, always great dining.
Kill Devil Hills has the most well known attraction on the Middle Outer Banks with its Wright Brothers Memorial, Nags Head is home to the Bodie Island Lighthouse while Manteo features Fort Raleigh. In between all of these destinations are (4) different ship wrecks that can be explored, (3) different piers for fishing or simply gazing, (2) aquariums and numerous state and local parks. When organizing our recommendations for this article we decided to focus on the various attractions first then the towns where they can be found. This way you can chose what you enjoy doing first then work out where you want to explore accordingly. Nothing is too far apart from anything else in the Middle Outer Banks so you’re never too far away from your next discovery.
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Beaches
For the most part beaches on the Outer Banks are accessible to the general public. Vacationers staying in local or rental homes generally are within walking distance of the beach. For others it’s worth planning ahead and finding the public access points along with the best available parking nearby.
Kitty Hawk & Kill Devil Hills Beaches
Kitty Hawk & Kill Devil Hills
The beaches of Kitty Hawk and Kill Devil Hills are best known for having the best waves along the Outer Banks. As a result this is where most local and visiting surfers can be found. All of the shoreline is open to the public including dozens of public beach access points, many with close-by parking areas and lifeguards during the busier summer months. If you’re able to secure them, the Kitty Hawk and Kill Devil Hills beaches have small dune lines so many of the homes are located yards from the beach, quite convenient for the excellent shelling and surf fishing.
Coquina Beach
Nags Head
There is a 27.6 mile (44.4 km) stretch as you drive south down NC 12 from Nags Head towards the Lower Outer Banks. At about the 10 mile (16 km) mark you can go right to visit the Bodie Lighthouse or left into the public parking lot for Coquina Beach. This pristine stretch of beach, named after the colorful coquina clams, tends to be less crowded than some other Outer Banks beaches. There is permit-only driving allowed on the beach along with some of the best beachcombing, surf fishing and shelling available along the Middle Outer Banks.
Lighthouses
Bodie Island Lighthouse
Kill Devil Hills
Across the NC 12 from Coquina Beach is Bodie Island Lighthouse road that leads you towards the Roanoke Sound and the Bodie Island Lighthouse. Like almost all of the lighthouses along the North Carolina coast, the Bodie (pronounced “body”) Lighthouse is adorned in a black-and-white pattern. From atop the 156’ (47.5m) structure one has a complete 360° view of the Atlantic ocean and the Roanoke Sound. There is also a cool lookout station, accessible by a wooden walkway, that overlooks the marshland and provides a beautiful view of the lighthouse from a distance.
Roanoke Marshes Lighthouse
Manteo
The Roanoke Marshes Lighthouse is often not included in the list of Outer Banks lighthouses. This could be due to its diminutive stature, only 156’ (47.5 m) in height, the fact that it is only a replica of the original 1877 structure or its location, not on the ocean but rather tucked well inside Shallowbag Bay on the Roanoke Sound. While not as noticeable as its tallest counterparts, the Roanoke Marshes Lighthouse served passing sailors and local fishermen well when navigating their way back to port.
Parks
Sandy Run Park
Kitty Hawk
Situated at the southwest corner of the Kitty Hawk Woods Coastal Reserve, Sandy Run Park is 1,600 acres (647 ha) of marshland, waterways and maritime forest. In addition to the natural wonders, the park also features a putting green, half-court basketball, cookout grilles, a picnic pavilion and a few canoe and kayak access points. As you wander around keep an eye out for some of the local creatures like deer, egrets, yellow-bellied slider turtles and otters.
Dowdy Park
Nags Head
With over 5 acres (2 ha) of accessible recreation available, Dowdy Park in Nags Head features fun for all ages and interests. There is a playground for the little ones, a bocce ball court for the older ones, a fitness trail for the active ones and an amphitheater for the artistic ones. Formerly the location of Joe Dowdy’s Amusement Park (closed 2005), today the park is home to the Dowdy Park Farmers Market open on the 2nd and 4th Thursday of each month in May through October.
Nags Head Town Park
Nags Head
Ensconced among the trees along the fringe of Nags Head Woods is the Nags Head Town Park. The highlight of this park is the amount of open space allowing for kite-flying, frisbee throwing and even pick-up soccer games. There is also a fantastic short nature trail through the dunes and maritime forests that abuts the Croatan Sound. The park also has a playground, grilles for picnicking and even a covered shelter with picnic tables.
Jockey’s Ridge State Park
Nags Head
Jockey’s Ridge State Park is home to the tallest living sand dune on the entire Atlantic coast. It makes sense then that it is also the site of the best hang-gliding on the Outer Banks. For a more low-key experience you can access the soundside of the park for calmer (and warmer) water and a nature trail that explores grassy dunes, wetlands and maritime thickets. If you’re near the Middle Outer Banks in August be sure not to miss “Dune Day” featuring live music, booths, raffles, crafts and cupcakes.
Ship Wrecks
The Winks Wreck
Kitty Hawk
One of the lesser known of the Middle Outer Banks ship wrecks, the Winks Wreck is thought to be the remains of the British Steamer Mountainer out of Liverpool. The ability to see it is dependent upon the tide level and how calm the waters are as the wreck is relatively small. It’s about 120 yards (010 m) off shore and about 10-30 feet (3-9 m) deep depending on the tide. The wreck also attracts local spearfishing enthusiasts for the Spades, Amberjack, Sheepshead and Tautog that commune around the wreck.
The Triangle Wrecks
Kill Devil Hills
The Triangle Wrecks are actually two different ships that ran aground in 1927 and 1929. The resulting debris is roughly the shape of a triangle, hence the name. While you can swim out on your own to the wrecks it is best to be accompanied by experienced divers or to charter a boat. You can spot the location, marked by a large buoy, around 100 yards (91 m) offshore at about 15-20 feet (4.5-6 m) of depth.
The Huron
Nags Head
Just north of the Nags Head Fishing Pier, about 200 yards (183 m) offshore, lies the remains of The Huron. This naval vessel, among the last to be built with iron (instead of steel), sunk just minutes from leaving Hampton Roads in 1877 on her way to Havana. The Huron is the most famous, and frequented, wreck along the Middle Outer Banks. The disaster caused the death of 98 officers and crew when the 175′ (53 m) vessel heeled over while the crew was working calmly to free their ship. The remains are located 200 yards offshore at a depth of 20’ (18 m).
Piers
Avalon Fishing Pier
Kill Devil Hills
The Avalon Fishing Pier is a fisherman’s paradise. The pier extends 696’ (212 m) out into the Atlantic and is 12-15’ (4-5 m) above the water level dependent upon the tide. There is a bait and tackle shop that can provide any and all of your needs plus a snack shop that includes cold beer. When fishing you can expect to find fish as large as kingfish and cobias along with more common catches like stripers, pompano, flounder, croakers and trout. There is a $10 per person fee to fish and a $2 per person cost to simply walk the pier. Keep an eye out for surfers who love this stretch of water.
Jennette’s Pier
Nags Head
Jennette’s Pier is the very first pier ever built on the Outer Banks. It has been through several rebuilds over the years due to coastal storms and hurricanes. The 1,000’ (305 m) pier’s wooden decks are now built to withstand winds up to 130 mph (209 kmph) and is open year-round. Everything you need to fish is available at the bait and tackle shop as well as a gift shop, beach and bathhouse, observation balcony, event’s hall and even a few magnificent NC Aquarium exhibits that are worth the visit alone.
Nags Head Fishing Pier
Nags Head
The Nags Head Fishing Pier is bare bones and to the point . . . it is about fishing. The pier’s only amenities are occasional lamps and a bunch of benches. But the fishing is great as is the Pier House Restaurant. Stretching 750’ (229 m) into the Atlantic, Nags Heads Fishing Pier produces a wide array of fish ranging from Spanish and king mackerals, bluefish and mullets to flounder, sea trout and snappers. You could well see some sharks as well. It $14 to fish all day and $2 to just lounge or walk the pier.
Nature & Wildlife Areas
Kitty Hawk Woods Coastal Reserve
Kitty Hawk
Just below the Wright Memorial Bridge on NC 158 is the Kitty Hawk Woods Coastal Reserve. Spanning 1,890 acres (765 ha) the woods contain maritime swamp forests, maritime deciduous forest and freshwater wetlands. Within the reserve there are opportunities to hike, observe nature, hunt (with valid license) and even kayaking. Along the way expect to see a wide variety of birds (snow geese, mallards, egrets, bald eagles, owls, etc.), reptiles and amphibians as well as plants like American Beech and Bald Cypress.
Nags Head Woods Ecological Preserve
Kill Devil Hills
The Nags Head Woods Ecological Preserve is a joy for hikers with (7) trails that are spread throughout a 5 mile (8 km) area. The preserve itself covers 1,400 acres (567 ha) of maritime forest and other soundside ecosystems. You’ll find more than 300 species of plants including holly bushes, hickory trees, loblolly pines, Mosquito fern and the southern tway-blade. Some of the wildlife you might observe is the yellow prothonotory warbler, egrets, water moccasins, white-tailed deer and nutrias. Do remember to bring some bug spray and sunscreen . . .
Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge
Manteo
If you enjoy wildlife then the Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge is a must stop when on the Middle Outer Banks. You’ll find yourself surrounded by a wide variety of habitats including freshwater lakes and ponds, cropland, forests, saltwater marshes and, if you canoe or kayak deep within the refuge, giant black gum trees. There are 15 miles (24 km) of trails where you can stop and fish for bluegill, crappie or other freshwater fish or stroll along and maybe catch a glance of black bears, American alligators, rabbits or endangered red wolves. At all times you’ll be entertained by the sounds of over 200 migratory birds including red-cockaded woodpeckers, woodcocks, shorebirds, geese and white swans.
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Museums
North Carolina Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores
Nags Head
Of the (4) NC Aquariums, the North Carolina Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores offers the most unique experience. Not only are there great exhibits inside the facility but also outdoor features like a few bald eagles, two different viewing platforms on the water where you can see White Ibis, Great Egret, Great Blue Heron and Black-Crowned Night Heron all flying and feeding in their natural habitat, a snake station and a playscape for the little ones. Inside you’ll find a 306,000-gallon (1,158 m3) tank featuring a replica of a German U-352 submarine as well as Blackbeard’s infamous ship, the Queen Anne’s Revenge. If that isn’t enough there is a stingray touch-tank, rare sea turtles and even an albino alligator.
Roanoke Island Festival Park
Manteo
All great museums succeed in taking you back to a previous time and increasing your understanding of life as it was then. The Roanoke Island Festival Park transports you back to the 16th century and the first English settlers to the new world. The fact that it is essentially its own island only enhances the experience. Outside you’ll find a Settlement Site, an American Indian Town and the Elizabeth II, a representation of one of the English merchant vessels from the Roanoke Voyage of 1585. The Roanoke Adventure Museum does an excellent job of showing how all of the exterior areas tie together in context. A great experience for the entire family.
Roanoke Island Aquarium
Roanoke Island
Located towards the northwest part of the island is the North Carolina Aquarium on Roanoke Island. From the moment you walk through the front entrance, and its magnificent cathedral ceiling foyer, you’ll find a never-ending variety of water related wildlife and local natural history. From a 285,000-gallon shark (1,079 m3) tank and touch tanks featuring stingrays, horseshoe crabs and white-spotted bamboo sharks to hyper-active sea otters, alligators, sea turtles and our personal favorite, Delicate Drifters, a translucent collection of Blubber Jelly, Moon Jelly and Bay Nettles creatures.
Historic Sites
Wright Brothers National Memorial
Kill Devil Hills
Perhaps the most famous part of the Middle Outer Banks is the Wright Brothers National Memorial. The memorial is atop a 90’ (27.4 m) hill and is itself around 60’ (18.3 m) in height. Making its debut in the late fall of 1932, the monument is the tallest structure (apart from the lighthouses) on the Outer Banks. Behind the monument is a small park with a number of great opportunities for pictures for the kids and family or friends. There is also a large field which commemorates the taking off and landing points of the Wrights Bros. original flights as well as a reconstructed hanger and living quarters. There are also a few museums that are a must for any history or aviation aficionados.
Island Farm
Manteo
Island Farm is a living history site that replicates daily life in in mid 19th century on Roanoke Island. Your guides, fully attired in 1850’s manner, will immerse you in the daily activities of the coastal inhabitants including blacksmithing, cooking, woodworking, farming and even children’s games. You can go inside the homes and learn more about what, and how, they cooked or simply wander the grounds on your own. Be sure to ask any of the staff any questions as they are all well versed and really enjoy what they do every day.
Fort Raleigh National Historic Site
Roanoke Island
The Fort Raleigh National Historic Site actually has a few different features spread throughout the 16-acre (6.5 ha) property. There is a visitor center with a small museum that lays the groundwork for the outdoor areas. The site of the fort is underwhelming as the original fort, made of only wood and mud, has long since sunken into the ground. The real gems of the site are the Lost Colony outdoor drama (with its own amphitheater), the 10-acre (4 ha) Elizabethan Gardens and the multiple walking trails available. The gardens alone are worth the visit, especially in the spring and summer.
Hotels
Many visitors to the Middle Outer Banks will opt to rent a home for a week but if you’re only planning a stay of a few days it might make more sense to stay at a hotel, especially if they are right on the ocean. Here are the hotels that we’d recommend for a stay of a night or a week.
Cypress Moon Inn
Kitty Hawk
For those looking for a more relaxing and laid back alternative the Cypress Moon Inn is a wonderful, though not cheap, experience. Located on the soundside in Kitty Hawk, the inn is tucked away in the cypress woods and features large and comfortable rooms . . . but only three of them so you’ll need to call well ahead for reservations. Each room has its own floor including a wrap-around balcony, antique furnishings, refrigerator and access to a dock for swimming in the warm calm waters of the Currituck Sound.
Cypress House Inn
Kill Devil Hills
When you get a 5-star rating you must be doing something right. The Cypress House Inn, located a block from the Wright Brothers National Memorial and a minute from the beach, is a family owned establishment that treats its guests like their own. Bill and Veda Peters, along with their dog Sassy, live at the inn so they are always around and are incredibly hospitable. Essentially a B&B, the inn has five rooms available each of which are unique in appearance but alike in amenities and comfort. To top it off, the breakfasts are delicious and plentiful.
First Colony Inn
Nags Head
One of the highest rated B&B’s on the Middle Outer Banks is the First Colony Inn in Nags Head. It represents southern hospitality at its finest from the hot breakfast to the afternoon wine and dessert social. All of the furnishings hearken back to a different age of delicate linens and hand carved chairs and bedposts. All of the modern conveniences are present including a heated towel bar, private baths, free WiFi, microwave, refrigerator and an excellent outdoor pool just in case you didn’t want to make the 1 minute walk to the beach.
White Doe Inn
Manteo
The White Doe Inn is Trip Advisor’s #1 choice for overnight lodgings in all of Manteo. Tucked in the heart of Manteo, just minutes from the Roanoke Marshes Lighthouse, this grand Victorian home is a visual delight. No detail is overlooked in this 19th-century renovation from the entrance foyer and dining area to the individuality of each of the eight bedrooms. Each room has its own fireplace, walk-in shower and in-room massages. Complimentary breakfasts include fresh fruit, fresh ground grits, a hot entree and even a breakfast dessert. Afternoons also include complimentary homemade pastries.
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Restaurants
High Cotton NC BBQ
Kitty Hawk
If you love North Carolina BBQ then find your way to High Cotton. Friendly atmosphere, excellent service, fantastic food and even a little gift shop. Everyone has their favorites from the St. Louis cut ribs smothered with sweet and spicy dry rub, Texas style beef brisket (a personal favorite), traditional fried chicken or huge combo plates. No southern meal is complete without hush puppies, fried okra, green beans and applesauce. Save room for the coconut, lemon or chocolate pecan chess pie.
JK's Restaurant
Kill Devil Hills
Every area has its hidden gems and on the Middle Outer Banks, JK’s fits the bill. It isn’t cheap but well worth the expense. JK’s is known as the “place for steak” from center cut filet mignon and ribeye to New York Strip and 40-day aged, mesquite grilled bone-in ribeye “Cowboy Steak”. They also feature an excellent Scottish Salmon, veal rib chop, grilled tuna and lamb rack. You may only be able to afford one meal at JK’s during your visit but you won’t regret it.
The Collington Cafe
Kill Devil Hills
Consistently one of the top-rated restaurants on the Outer Banks, The Collington Cafe has a menu matched only by its ambience and charm. Known for its fresh seafood, the menu is actually quite diverse and always has a hint of French inspiration. This former home, surrounded by 400-year old Oaks, features vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. Make sure to leave room for the chocolate cake with raspberry sauce.
Blue Moon Beach Grill
Nags Head
For an unassuming, pleasant and fun experience try the Blue Moon Beach Grille. It features a menu “southern comfort food with a creative flair” set inside an open kitchen, a 9-seat tiki bar and an L-shaped dining area. They have an excellent lunch, dinner and kids menus with everything from mussels fromage bleu, Mahi Mahi BLT and the amazing Blue Moon Caesar salad to seaside bucatini, the Tree Hugger and even PB&J for the little ones. As a bonus, they also display and sell local art. No reservations are accepted so expect a line . . . it’s worth the wait.
Stripers Bar and Grille
Manteo
Stripers is one of the better known local eateries along the entire North Carolina coast. As the name suggests, seafood is their specialty, enhanced by the fact that every one of their 3-story 160 person seating overlooks the Shallowbag Bay. Stripers is one of those places that frequent visitors to the Outer Banks return to every year. The cheesesteak egg rolls and meatloaf are amazing but most come for the seafood like the Mahi fish tacos, crab Benedicts, shrimp avocado caprese or rockfish reuben. Finish it all off with the lemon marscapone cake or the apple crisp.
This is the second of (3) articles that will explore the unforgettable Outer Banks. We’ve already covered the Upper Outer Banks (Carova, Corolla, Duck, Southern Shores) and soon we’ll also explore the Lower Outer Banks (Rodanthe, Waves, Salvo, Avon, Buxton, Frisco, Hatteras, Ocracoke) in more detail.
If you’ve never been then you’ll definitely want to add it to your bucket list. If you have we’d love to hear about your favorite town and activities (even if it’s just the beach!)
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We started out 37 years ago vacationing on the OBX. Then it was 3 of us. Now, my 2 daughters ,their husband’s , 4 grandchildren & my Husband & myself will be loving & having fun in Nags Head come this October. We would never ever Think of going any place else ! Thank you
Fantastic to hear. What memories you must have!