If you love the wild horses found on the Upper Outer Banks in North Carolina, you’ll need to spend a few days on Chincoteague Island. In addition to quiet serenity, wonderful beach town atmosphere and great local restaurants there are families of wild ponies that roam just across the channel on Assateague Island. There is a town park for relaxing, convenient beach access, local history and even a functioning lighthouse. You can choose to relax and enjoy the warm ocean water and waves or take advantage of the over 14 miles of trails available on Assateague Island.
Chincoteague Island is a mere 3 miles wide and 7 miles long (4.8 km x 11.2 km) so nothing is ever too far away. Every year tens of thousands curious onlookers descend upon Chincoteague to observe the “pony swim” where 150 wild ponies are herded by Saltwater Cowboys across the Assateague Channel to be held for auction. Located to the south is Wallop Island, home to NASA rocket launches that can be seen, and certainly heard, from anywhere on Chincoteague. Everywhere you go on any of the local islands is a birdwatchers paradise. You’ll find all manner of species from the massive Great Egret and Bald Eagle to Great Blue Heron and diminutive Sanderling.
Waterfront Park
The Robert Reed Waterfront Park is located right in the heart of town just off Main St. If you enter from the street you are greeted by a beautiful bronze statue of Misty, of Misty of Chincoteague fame. As you enter the park you’ll see the Chincoteague Island Library to your left, an open pavilion straight ahead, an open field to your right all framed to the north by a boardwalk with docked boats along the Black Narrows. On weekends the open field is often filled with local vendors selling their wares while the pavilion is filled with the sounds of live music. The highlight of the park are the oversized Adirondack LOVE seats installed in 2014 to further the famous “Virginia is for Lovers” brand. Be aware there is no parking lot for the park but there are plenty of places to park on the street or if you are also frequenting one of the nearby restaurants or shops.
On the Reel
Marguerite Henry Stable of Classics (1947-1966)
Written by Marguerite Henry
For over 70 years Marguerite Henry’s horse tales have captured the imagination of children throughout the world. Starting in 1947 with the original Misty of Chincoteague, this 8-book collection also includes many of her other award-winning classics including Misty’s Twilight and Sea Star.
CLICK IMAGE TO PURCHASE
Assateague Lighthouse
On the southern end of Assateague Island is the red-and-white horizontally stripped Assateague Lighthouse. At 142’ (43.3 m) in height the lighthouse serves as a perfect landmark to get your bearings no matter where you are on Chincoteague, Assateague or on the channel that separates the two islands. The original lighthouse was built in 1833 then upgraded (34) years later to appear as it does today. Obviously many safety features have been added over the years so no need to fear a climb to the top for the 360° views. An interesting note conveyed to us by our boat tour guide . . . the lighthouse used to sit right on the shoreline but, do to the natural shifting of the shoreline, now sits well back from the water. It is also one of the few remaining lighthouses whose beacon can still be seen at night from as far as 19 miles (30.6 km) out to sea.
Assateague Island
Assateague Island can be explored on foot, on bike or by car. We choose to walk to the lighthouse and explore the Marsh Trail by foot but biked all of the other trails. Most of the trails are flat and paved so the bikes we got from The Bike Depot were perfect and allowed us to navigate the remaining 12+ miles (19.3 km) quite easily in just a few hours. You start by crossing over the Assateague Channel bridge. If you’re on foot or bike you can proceed right past the ranger station (cars have a $10 per person or $20 per vehicle fee). The bike/walking path winds through a loblolly pine forest until you reach the main parking area.
There are (2) main trails by which you can access all of the additional trails . . . the Wildlife Loop and Beach Road. While Beach Road isn’t technically a “trail” there is a separate bike/walk path available for safety. A bit over a mile down Beach Road you’ll see open plains to the right with spots of water and, most likely, cars parked on the side of the road. You’ll also notice lots of birds and feral ponies. They’re about 75-100 yards away so make sure you either have binoculars or a zoom lens camera. The ponies aren’t normally very active, spending most of their time eating the saltwater grass, so take your time and enjoy the view.
More than a mile down Beach Road you’ll see signs on the right for the Woodland Trail. As you enter you’ll notice a paddock to your left. This is the way they corral the ponies prior to the pony swim each July. Almost immediately the Woodland Trail splits. You can either go left towards the Bivalve Trail or right on the Pony Overlook as the trail is a loop. The Pony Overlook requires a short walk out to a wooden platform that looks out over an open marshy plain. Visibility is very good but we didn’t see any ponies here. The Bivalve Trail is lots of fun on a bike as it’s narrow with high reeds on either side of the path. Eventually it opens up in a beautiful forest that ends at the water’s edge.
Continuing back on the Beach Road you cross an estuary that funnels some of water under the road that is a gathering spot for local birds like waterfowl, Great Egrets and Blue Heron. To the north, over the Swans Cove Pool, you can just see the top half of the lighthouse. Eventually you hit an open stretch with Tom’s Cove Visitor Center in the distance with rising sand dunes just on the other side. There’s a ramp that winds through some marsh between the beach parking lot and the visitor center. The beach itself is pretty open and flat with active waves ideal for boogie-boarding. If you have a pass you can continue down for miles and miles of off-roading.
As you head back the way you came you’ll see a sign for Black Duck Trail, which allows you to shortcut over to the Wildlife Loop. The loop itself does not have any bike paths but, as no cars are allowed before 3 pm, you can go long stretches without seeing anyone. There are only a few places where the wild ponies tend to gather for viewing but there is so much else to enjoy along your way. There are a surprising number of trees like loblolly pines, red maple, sweetgum and sassafras along with marsh scrubs like beach heather, wax-myrtle and marsh elder. What really got our attention was the number of birds both in the air and on, or alongside, the water as well as the distant trees stripped completely bare by pine beetle infestation.
ASSATEAGUE ISLAND FAST FACTS
LOCATION: Kure Beach, NC
HOURS: 6am-6pm daily. Open till 8pm March-April + October & till 10pm May-September.
COST: FREE (on foot or bike) – $20 per vehicle
TIME TO COMPLETE: 2 hours – all day
ACCOMODATIONS: Large parking lots and portable restrooms
Daisey’s Island Cruises
An even better way to see the islands, and especially the ponies, is by water. The Refuge Inn recommended Daisey’s Island Cruises and we had an outstanding tour. Bill, our tour guide, asked us if we preferred to search for dolphins, see the ponies or both . . . we all chose both. As we left the harbor we could see the lighthouse to the northwest as we headed towards the narrow strip of Assateague beach. To the west is Wallops Island where rockets are launched into space from the Wallops Flight Facility. We were able to see a number of dolphins but mostly from a distance.
Soon we made our way towards Black Point Landing and found a family of wild ponies. Though we only caught occasional glimpses of the herd’s stallion, Riptide, we were able to spend a good amount of time with the mares as they ate along the water’s edge. The coloring of the ponies was fascinating with a few sporting solid coats but most had large swaths of different solid combinations known as pinto patterns. Technically these ponies are only slightly smaller than horses but they have distinctive swelled bellies due to the poor food supply on the island. A bonus on our trip was a nice, albeit distant, view of a bald eagle and a massive nest high up in the trees along the shore.
DAISY ISLAND CRUISES FAST FACTS
LOCATION: Chincoteague Island, Virginia
HOURS: 8am-6pm daily
COST: $55 Adults & $45 Children (12 and under)
TIME TO COMPLETE: 2 hours
ACCOMODATIONS: Large parking lot and public restrooms
Waterman's Memorial
The eastern seaboard is notorious for it’s dangerous waters. From the shipwrecks off the coast of the Outer Banks to the rocky New England shores, the Atlantic Ocean is infamous for it’s oceanic tragedies. Chincoteague’s Waterman’s Memorial was established to pay tribute to the many lives lost at sea. Located at the west end of the marina, the location is ideal for self-reflection, remembrance while also providing an ideal spot for viewing any rocket launches off Wallops Island or enjoying a calm sunset. Please take the time to read some of the personal testimonials written on the various markers.
Refuge Inn
A special thanks to the Refuge Inn for inviting us and hosting our stay! There is plenty of history with the Don Leonard Family, who originally founded the Refuge Inn. The late Mr. Leonard was known as quite the character and someone who contributed significantly to the island, most notably the wild ponies. Don’s son, Arthur, is a 5th generation Islander and has been the mayor of Chincoteague Island for almost 5 years now. Arthur’s son, Hunter, is a boat captain for Daisey’s Island Cruises as well as a waterman, saltwater cowboy and hunting guide while daughter Cynthia helps run the Inn welcoming and caring for all their guests. As you can see, there is a fascinating history with the Leonard family that made our visit to the Island, and stay at the Refuge Inn, much more informative and interesting.
As we always plan and research our accommodations very carefully, we were not surprised to find that the Refuge Inn perfectly met our criteria. We found affordable accommodations, daily complimentary breakfast, comfortable, well-fitted rooms, a great location in close proximity to Assateague Island but also a friendly and locally knowledgeable staff. The rooms were spacious and clean including a mini refrigerator, coffee maker, plenty of space for our luggage, a small dining area for our daily free breakfast and a semi-private porch with (2) Adirondack chairs. The outdoor amenities included an indoor/outdoor pool, sauna and BBQ/grilling outdoor picnic area.
One of our main draws to the Refuge Inn was its location. You have an easy walk over the channel to Assateague Island and just a few minutes drive to downtown. There are (2) excellent lookout areas on the property that provide stunning views of Assateague Island, the channel, the surrounding marsh and sunsets. The Refuge Inn is also home to (3) feral ponies, the pure white Honeymoon, gray Jasmine and a beautiful painted foal aptly named Pocahontas. You can feed the horses using a trough (but not by hand) and can pet them but caution is advised. The grounds and interior are beautifully designed and appointed including a wonderful gift shop filled with many items from local artists. We had an amazing time exploring the island and staying at the Refuge Inn!
The Bike Depot
Also hosted for our trip were a couple bikes from the Bike Depot, located right next door to the Refuge Inn (and owned by them as well). They offer a wide variety of options from beach cruisers (our choice) and tag-a-long attachments to adult tricycles and covered kiddie karts. For an additional dollar each you can also select a helmet, bike lock and/or baskets. We found the basket a more convenient place for our travel backpacks. They also provide a full array of beach gear like chairs, umbrellas, boogie boards and binoculars in addition to Assateague trail maps.
Chincoteague Restaurants
There are a number of different culinary options on Chincoteague to choose from that range from higher end to McDonald’s. On an island so small the restaurants compete amongst themselves for tourist and local business which results in some excellent choices. Our top picks include:
Don’s Seafood Restaurant
Don’s Seafood Restaurant is located a block down the street from the Robert Reed Waterfront Park and has excellent views of the Chincoteague Channel from the second floor dining area. Their seafood is not just the best in town but, with all of its oysters and clams coming in fresh every day from local Tom’s Cove Aquafarms, eating there also supports a local fishery. They have a full menu including vegetarian dishes, a children’s menu, sandwiches and excellent sides (the mac & cheese is superb). If you are interested in evening entertainment the second floor also features Chattie’s cocktail lounge with nightly dancing.
Chincoteague Diner & Restaurant
We weren’t sure about the Chincoteague Diner, located across the street from the Refuge Inn, as it appeared a bit aged from the outside. As the saying goes . . . looks can be deceiving, at least for lunch. This is a popular spot for locals (always a good sign) and the burger and fries were excellent. We really enjoyed dining in the covered porch which provided an outdoor feel without the heat and bugs. Wide-open menu serving breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Bill’s PRIME Seafood & Steaks
We made the error of just walking into Bill’s PRIME Seafood & Steaks for dinner expecting to be seated. They politely informed us that a reservation would be needed and nothing more was available that night. When we reserved a table for the following afternoon for a late lunch/early dinner we understood why Bill’s is so popular. The atmosphere is inviting and relaxing but it’s the food that keeps everyone coming back for more. The BIG Cheeze (4 cheeses grilled between 2 slices of brioche bread) sandwich with a creamy Parmesan dipping sauce and fries were sublime as was the Fish & Chips. Bill’s is conveniently located next to the Island Theater and just down the street from the Chincoteague Island Library.
Maddox Boulevard
The only way to get onto the island by car is by the Chincoteague drawbridge which crosses over the Chincoteague Channel. If you continue straight the road becomes Maddox Boulevard, one of the two main drags on the island. Maddox features a more commercial and playful feel with eateries like Mister Whippy, Island Creamery and BYOC, Build Your Own Cookie. There are also an eclectic mix of restaurants ranging from the traditional Village Restaurant and Steamers to the local favorite “roach-coach” style choices of Lily’s Little Mexico and Woody’s Serious Food. You’ll also find Surfside mini-golf, Funland Amusements, Maui Jack’s Waterpark, the Chamber of Commerce and a wonderful mural at the corner of Maddox and Deep Hole Rd. After the rotary is the Refuge Inn and then the bridge to Assateague Island.
Main Street
The other main street on Chincoteague Island is . . . Main Street which has more of a traditional beach town feel to it with older buildings and a mix of restaurants, the Waterfront Park, the town library, a movie theater and numerous eclectic shops for many tastes. Restaurants include Don’s Seafood, Saigon Village, ChincoTiki Caribbean and Bill’s PRIME. Shops include Sundial Books, Island Butterfly Jewelry, and, of course, a T-Shirt Factory. There are a few galleries featuring local artists like the Osprey Nest and Tryfan but the most interesting one is the Flying Fish Gallery with its ironwork sculptures of various sizes and shapes. As you approach the southwest tip of Chincoteague you notice an endless string of individual, and group, ramps for private boat slips.
Other Sites to See
Captain Timothy Hill House
On the northeast end of Chincoteague is the Captain Timothy Hill House, the oldest known house on the island. Built sometime around 1800, this National Register of Historic Places landmark is notable for its wooden chimney and the sailing ships carved into the exterior logs all around the house.
Chincoteague Island Library
The local library is privately funded and appears quite small on the outside. Inside you feel transported back to a simple time with its traditional oakwood floors, stairs and banisters contrasted smartly by the bright white columns and fence posts. Though small, it is surprisingly modern with six computers, free wi-fi 24/7 and is connected digitally to the Eastern Shore Public Library System. The new addition sits on the southeast edge of the Waterfront Park and adds a bit of architectural class to the open space.
Museum of Chincoteague
Every place owns a unique history that can stand on its own. Island histories are unlike others since change comes slowly and infrequently. That’s why the Chincoteague Island Museum was such a pleasant surprise. From its magnificent lighthouse display that includes the original massive fresnel lens and history of local storms and shipwrecks to the real stories behind the islands most famous ponies, Misty and Stormy, and how oystering shaped the local populace. The only complaint is the museum has packed a lot into a relatively small space so it can feel at bit claustrophobic in some areas. Otherwise, great little museum!
Curtis Merritt Harbor
As marinas go, the Curtis Merritt Harbor isn’t large with its 85 total slips, but it is a great spot for fishing and viewing the sunset. If you are looking for a boat tour or deep-sea fishing charter it will most likely launch from here at the far southwest end of the island. There is supposedly a 10-year waiting list for commercial boat slips and 30 for recreation boaters. At the far south end you’ll find a trail that leads to the Waterman’s Memorial and one of the best spots on the island to watch the sunset.
Chincoteague Sunsets
Speaking of sunsets . . . because of the nature of barrier islands, Chincoteague has a few ideal spots to see the sunset over the water. You could off-road down the beach on Assateague and see the sun set over Tom’s Cove, gather at the bridge that crosses over the Assateague Channel or hang out at the Waterman’s Memorial. The sunsets can’t match those of Hawaii or the west coast but are still dramatic and often spectacular.
Chincoteague Island is the perfect long weekend getaway for the active couple or family. If you love nature and enjoy peace and tranquility then a visit should be on your bucket list. Do you have a favorite barrier island? Please let us know . . . we’d love to explore it and share our adventures here on theglovetrotters.com.
Fantastic read. Thank you. Makes this Marylander want to venture out.
Thank you for the kind words. Chincoteague is definitely worth the visit.